I select my meal from a range of a la carte dishes to create a lighter version of the nine-course $125 prix fixe menu they offer nightly. The halibut crudo may have come from as close as SF’s own Ocean Beach.Īncora's executive chef, Nick Anichini. In the late summer season, that includes white sea bass swimming north into Monterey and Half Moon bays, anchovies schooling in the San Francisco Bay, and trout migrating through mountain lakes and streams around Mt. It’s around those sustainable catches that Ancora’s menu revolves. Today they work primarily with fisheries from Monterey to Fort Bragg to bring more than a dozen types of swimmers and scuttlers to restaurants and home cooks. Water2Table began trading in five local fish species in 2011. After 25 years watching San Francisco restaurants turn not to local fishermen for their fish and seafood but to larger, less responsible fishing fleets, the latter set out to build a bridge between them. On its southern wall, an expansive mural of swirling red and orange fish is lit by an elaborate light fixture that’s all transparent bulbs and metal arms.Īncora is a collaboration between chef Nick Anichini, formerly of Atelier Crenn, and Joe and Andi Conte of Water2Table Fish Company. The former Locanda space is accented with the geometry of clean white tile and dark wood. The restaurant, still under-the-radar in its heavily trafficked corridor of Valencia Street between 16th and 17th, is quiet when my appetite and I show up shortly after it’s opened its doors on a Tuesday evening. Inside the new Mission seafood restaurant, Ancora. Ancora, the Mission’s new sustainable seafood spot, wants to be part of the solution, not the problem. When fished sustainably, seafood is the world’s most environmentally efficient source of protein, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Overfishing isn’t just removing species from the ocean faster than they can reproduce and replenish their populations, it’s setting the stage for the total collapse of marine ecosystems across the globe.īut it doesn’t have to. It’s destroyed the livelihoods of small, independent fishing operations, and replaced them with large, fuel-spewing fleets that catch endangered species as indifferently as they do edible ones in their trawling nets. It’s decimated populations of Atlantic halibut and bluefin tuna, weakened coral reefs, and made what was once the most biodiverse place on the planet a whole lot less so. Overfishing has devastated our oceans and waterways.
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